Wednesday, April 21, 2010
Monday, April 19, 2010
Updated the library, be sure to check it :)
I started working on HG Exia, still waiting for Ignition to arrive.
Some planing done mostly using blutack, they may be changed later but you get the basic idea.
sorry for blur but here are pics:
I don't want to do any havy mods on the suit itself but I went with custom weapons wich will vaguely remind of origianl Exia weapons, I don't have any names for them yet so any ideas will be apriciated. Of cousre there will be some pla-plating here and there but not much.
more updates both to library and project soon! Aulon Out
Sunday, April 18, 2010
It's update time!
Thx to MokanaMan - known also as deathworld_dragon (BIG thx buddy!) I'm able to announce an oficial opening of Aulon's Mecha Library wich is a part of ZFDB - Zyncium Factory's Desing Bureau.
First addition consists of gunpla (with WIPs) made by unkown modeler, AFAIK site from wich this pics come is down for a few years now so don't ask me for more.
here you have link Library.
As for the Exia, the project is now much bigger - it consists of MG Exia, MG Exia Repair, HG Exia - weapon test type (in YELLOW!) and 1/100 Astrea Type F -High Mobility (I got influenced by G.G.'s 1/100 Astraea FA Kai but while he is adding armor and stuff I will try to do as light and fast as possible )
Now I had to sand all of paint from first Exia and re-do it, after that panel lined with oil paits (mixed viridian and cerulean blue) after that decals - I now hate dry transfers, they do look the best but on this kit they are so tiny.... I added 2 waterslides - the one that came with the kit couldn't be used because of the color change. At the end matt top coat and here it is:
the base is about 50% done and weapons are only snapped... I'm waiting for my Iginition to come, I wonder how plated blades will look in person if I won't like it then I will paint the ones I have.
That's all for now, expect more updates soon!
Friday, April 16, 2010
I'm kinda ashamed to say that but I need you help guys.
My PC crashed and for now I'm using a spare drive (only OS on it), fortunataly not evrything on old drive is lost - altough it can't be used :/. The thing is I want to upload erything I can online, includding magazine scans, book scans, artworks, reference pics and hellova lot more that I colected in last 4 years (about 70k pics). But the to recent sitation I can't spend any more money.
Here is the hardest part for me: If you guys could donate just a little it would save me and that huge colection. In exchange I will give you guys acces to it. I don't need much if you would donate just a few bucks per person then it will be enough.
I'm not making you guys do it, in the end it's your call. If you don't want to donate - it's ok.
But if You could I will be realy gratefull.
Thre is other way to help too, If anyone would like to buy any of my finished kits send me an email at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Regular updates will reasume shortly, Thank You for all great comments this far.
Saturday, April 10, 2010
thx for comments, they always motivate me :)
my plan for panel lines:
this was just a rough quick test wiyhout cleaning etc done before painting.
Also i decided that after glos coating evrything it's time to do a test snap to see how it looks overall, so just a quick pic:
I will have to redo left shoulder and upper chest, but I don't know if I should leave the camo as it is or sand evrything down and paint it again without camo. Any advices?
Wednesday, April 7, 2010
First a little about my workspace (more about if demanded) I got myself somthing like that:
It's a very useful board, I will use it for reference pics, designs, my photos. So I don't always have to look at PC. and it looks nice :)
NOw here YOu have a quick work in photoshop (oh my crappy skillz...), this is the colour scheme... well a general idea. Small changes were made here and there but it's just to get the idea and keep me motivated.
Decals I'm gonna use, one that came with the kit and some waterslides from samueldecals, generic white markings and ones for 1/144 Exia - mostly for CB specific decals.
Now the actual update:
After looking at the clear green parts I decided to paint the frame behind them gold to give it more shine.
Now you think: "why he would do that? stickers will cover it anyway..."
You're right. But only partialy. I'm still gonna use stickers BUT I will cut out only the green ring and text. Aditionaly I panel lined insides of green orbs, now the text is much more noticeable (sorry for no pics, only tested in on 2-3 parts will post after doing rest).
Another thing I noticed is that holographic parts look much much better on shiny surfraces. So what I done I took the same gold oil marker I used for the orbs and painted parts of the inner frame that will be visible thru holo parts.
Here is a pic of marker in question, I also bought a silver one.
It is a diffrent shade than Gundam Marker, much more shiner when seen in person and much more metailc feeling.
Finaly we got to see some actual painting. Here are the red parts:
[i]sorry for those light reflexes, it was 6am and kinda dark[/i]
Nope, you reading it right RED parts, well they used to be :P.
1. remove nubs
2. sand 400 grit
3. sand 800 grit
4. wet sand 800 grit
5. wet sand 1200 grit
8. spraypaint primer
9. wait to dry overnight
10. handpaint Agama A41 M Air Superiority Blue (FS 35450)
11. wait to dry overday
13. spraypaint laquer blue*
14. wait to dry overnight
15. reamove masking tape
There will be more steps afterward :P
Now about * - this is a blue paint I got from work some time ago - they didn't need it so well... I have no idea what is the name of that color, but it looks awesome. I tought it will be much more darker and blueish (if that makes sense) and at first was kinda meh about using it, but my memories about handpaintint camo patterns were to scary... In the end it exceeded my expectations. Well there are few spots I have to touch up but only in light blue. Lesson learned: As I'm relatively to spraypainting (I LIKE handpainting but one day airbrush is a must) I need to remeber to make even thinner coats, at least with that paint as it is relativly thicker than white I was using before and primer I use, maybe it's because it's a few years old German paint from some not known company specialized in automotive products (AFAIK)
Another (IMO better) pic:
things I also did but not in the pictures:
primed blue parts
gloss coated innerframe (run out of gloss coat...)
till next upadate
Tuesday, April 6, 2010
As I'm waiting for some parts that I will ues on my other projects to arrive i started new project - MG Exia. this will be a dual build (still waiting for second Exia to arrive) or I might as well work on my HG Exia and make it a tripple build - depends on you guys.
As for the MG I'm gonna use Exia with Clear parts and Ignition Mode. The plan is: 1st I will make regular Exia but use LED from Ignition mode (not so crazy about chrome parts so far) and paint it in Setsuna F. [s]Say Yeah[/s] Seiei custom colors, You can call it Innovator Custom - for that I will use a little modified Qan[T] color scheme (the first one, not the new one) with use of digital camo. For the second kit - I have no idea.. propably will make it [s]terminator[/s] Repair but all ideas are welcom. For HG I have a few ideas but don't know if You guys want me to build it with those 2.
As for the kit itself I have to say it's not as bad as reviews made me bellive. Maybe because it's Clear Parts version, we will see after my Ignioton arrives. Only problem I encountered is in arms and hands - weapons doesn't wanna stay very well. They don't fal out on their own but it's hard to find right spot for them to stay. I'm thinking about adding a little rod in Gn Sword and Shield andd a little hole in arm slot. What you guys think?
So far Innerframe is detailed, First I used something I call metailzing, it similar to drybrushing but not exatcly. You take a dark mettilc color (in my case 57 Me Annealed Steel from Agama) take a little more than for deybrushing and make some realy quick dellicate passes on part, You wanna focus on wide areas instead of edeges. Will do a vid if you want. It's not somethin complicated and obviously there are better ways but I ilke it. It leaves original color of the parts (I use it mostly on innerframes and stuff like that)but ads a metilc feel.
left - after, right - before
left - after, right - before
After that some normal drybrushing using 46 Me Aluminium to show the edges
top - after, bottom - before
top - after, bottom - before
Expect to see more soon